Miniature Ordnance Review looks at the world of historical and fantasy miniatures wargaming and model building. From 15mm Flames of War, to Warhammer 40K, to 1/35th scale tanks, with some potential surprises on the horizon - you'll find them here!

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

The Great Plastic Debate

There was a time in the not so distant past (relatively speaking) when miniatures wargaming meant using lead figures.  The fantasy and science-fiction miniature companies used the same technology.  Then in the late 1980's, there was a concerted effort worldwide to reduce lead in consumer products because of toxicity issues with the heavy metal.  Many prominent manufacturers (like Citadel) went to a "lead free pewter."  Other manufacturers moved to a white metal alloy which still retained a small amount of lead as the absolute bans never materialized.

The new pewter alloys differed from the older high lead content miniatures in two important ways.  The metal was harder and therefore more difficult to clean up any casting flaws and mold lines.  The metal was also more expensive than the older alloys leading to across the board price increases for miniatures.  Largely because of the later issue, manufacturers began to experiment more with alternate materials for miniatures.

Companies like Battlefront, while still using metal for their small scale figures, began to use a mix of polyurethane resins and white metal for their vehicles.  The casting technology for resin is similar in many ways to metal, but resin is generally cheaper.  Plastic (both soft and hard) had been used for decades in certain scales for miniatures, but the quality of the plastic miniatures was almost universally inferior when compared to their metal counterparts.  One notable exception would be plastic vehicles from companies like Citadel which essentially used the same injection molding techniques and design used in scale model kits.

As the new century dawned, Citadel began to move away from metal all together and now use plastic not only for their vehicles, but their 28mm miniatures as well.  They have a "finecast" range that is now, interestingly, resin rather than metal.  At the smaller scales like 15mm, however, metal and resin still ruled.  The release of the Flames of War caused a surge in demand for 15mm miniatures and vehicles which had to that point been a fairly fragmented market.

With the increase in popularity of the 15mm scale, it was only a matter of time before new technology would be brought to bear into the market.  The primary drawback of injection molded plastic is that it has a very high up-front cost.  Creation of the molds for the kit sprues is expensive, and to get good detail, complex (and even more expensive) sliding molds are frequently required.  However, once the mold is created, a plastic miniature or vehicle is cheaper than its metal and/or resin counterpart.  Companies like Zvezda and Plastic Soldier Company brought plastic to 15mm figures and vehicles in a major way.

Recognizing the competitive threat, Battlefront had already started to dip its toe into injection molded plastic with the tracks for their Sherman and Sd Kfz 251 halftracks.  These were followed by the "Open Fire" boxed set featuring decent plastic infantry, but the vehicles and anti-tank guns were a bit of a mixed bag.  Since then Battlefront has continued to release plastic parts and kits.  Some have been excellent (the Panther tracks, T-34 kit, M113 kit, Sd Kfz 251 D) while others have had serious accuracy issues (Panzer IV J tracks, the Panzer IV H kit). 

The transition to plastic has not been without controversy.  Some people prefer the weight of the older metal and resin miniatures.  Others prefer the detailing possible with plastic vehicles.  Given the cost of setting up injection molds, only high volume SKU's are good candidates for conversion to plastic, which means that resin and metal are unlikely to completely go away in the near future at 15mm scale.  Resin and metal are still going to be cheaper to set up, and can in certain circumstances still offer detailing as good or better than plastic.

I personally like plastic for vehicles simply because it makes assembly and conversion easier, and as any reader of this blog understands I LOVE to do conversions.  I still have mixed feelings on the plastic figures at this point.  Some seem to have excellent detail, while others (like the tripod for the mortar in the open fire set) are crudely simplified.

So what are your thoughts on plastic vs. metal/resin miniatures?  Post in the comments below!

Thursday, April 24, 2014

Upcoming Remagen Book


The fine chaps over at Model Dads put up a brief preview of the Wargames Illustrated preview of the upcoming Remagen book for Flames of War.  They do a good job of providing a summary of the upcoming book.  If you run the video in large screen / high definition you can actually read some of the text and get a good idea as to what is going to be in the book.

Probably the biggest news is the Americans finally get an upgraded tank - the Pershing.  According to the Model Dads review it is roughly the equivalent of a Panther, and should give the American players a fun new toy to add to their lists.  Also on the way is the 76mm version of the Sherman Jumbo and a few other fun goodies.

On a few of the forums, the inclusion of rare American vehicles has brought up the issue of relative scarcity of equipment and how it is handled in Flames of War.  Many gaming systems account for the relative scarcity of equipment in its point cost to limit its usage on the tabletop.  Flames of War has never gone this route.  All equipment is pointed based on its capability or stat block, and the designers have instead limited the rarer equipment by list.  The net effect is that you're more likely to see a piece of unusual equipment in a Flames of War game than many other wargames.

Honestly, I prefer the Flames of War model (obviously since I spend way too much time on the game and its allied activities).  First and foremost because the Flames of War model gives you a lot more variety to pull your forces from, and second because most of the rare equipment was rare for a reason and they typically are not unbalancing on the table top. 

On the German side it there are going to be some fairly interesting lists, including 512 Schwere Panzerjäger Abteilung and 654 Schwere Panzerjäger Abteilung.  There is also a list for SS-Panzer-Brigade "Westfalen" - which if you've read Zaloga's Remagen book, should be interesting.

I've been waiting for this book to come out for some time, and will have a lot more to talk about once it has been released.

Sunday, January 5, 2014

Battlefront's Flawed Panzer IV Ausf J

I am a huge fan of Battlefront Miniatures and Flames of War.  It's a game that lets me get my model building fix, miniature painting fix, and wargaming fix all in one.  Throw in the fact that they let me actually write, proofread and playtest for them, and you've got a winning combination.  Generally Battlefront's miniatures are some of the most accurate and highest quality you can get in 15mm scale, which is the main reason why their Panzer IV Ausf J (GBX68) is so disappointing.  I picked up a box a while back planning on using the Ausf J for several Very Late War armies.  With the release of Desperate Measures covering the Soviet Vistula-Oder offensive, I was finally ready to pull the trigger on these little beauties.

I'd always had a love/hate relationship with Battlefront's metal Panzer IV tracks.  Overall they look great when painted up, but they frequently require quite a bit of clean up, especially on the top of the fender.  I was looking forward to the new Panzer IV's because they came with the updated plastic tracks.  As with the earlier Panther tracks, you sacrifice a bit of track detail, but the wheel detail and fenders promised to be excellent.

I got the first five together, and as expected, the assembly was much easier and there was a lot of really fine detail on the tracks and fenders that was frequently lost or not present on their metal equivalents.  However, as I built them I had a nagging feeling that there was just something not quite "right" about them...


While letting some of the last details on the Ausf J's dry, I decided to pull out a couple of Ostwind to provide some much needed air support for my poor Germans (and to maybe keep those pesky AOPs out of the way).  The Ostwind includes the older metal tracks with the reversible first two roadwheel positions (so you can run steel wheeled or regular rubber tired wheels).  I looked at the tracks, and the metal version of the running gear looked "right."  So I tried to figure out the difference between the two...


Then it hit me.  The idler (the wheel at the back) on the plastic tracks is wrong.  It is supposed to have seven spokes, and it has eight.  The asymmetry of the idler is one of the characteristic features of this design, and Battlefront had botched it on the plastic tracks.  Unfortunately it is likely to be a very costly fix as the problem is in the injection mold itself.  As Battlefront has announced an all plastic Panzer IV Ausf H in the coming year, I hope they double check the molds for it.

So where does that leave me?  I'm a chronic rivet counter, and having the wrong wheels on an iconic tank like the final Panzer IV just doesn't sit well.  So I've developed a work around until Battlefront gets the mold fixed (IF they ever get the mold fixed).  First you have to remove the offending idler:


I have a dremel bit that is roughly the same size as the idler, so it's fairly easy to set the stylus tool for low speed, carve out the idler, and then hit the area with some liquid cement to smooth out the burrs.  I've cast up a bunch of idler wheels from the metal version that I use as replacements:


I left a little extra material on the "as cast" idlers so I can custom fit each one to the tracks.  Once the dry fitting is complete you simply pop in the replacement idler and you've got a corrected Panzer IV Ausf J:


As Battlefront has designed their plastic parts to be drop in replacements for the white metal, the fit is excellent.

Unfortunately this is a major screw-up for Battlefront.  Now that I have a reasonable work-around, I'll still buy some of the Panzer IV Ausf J's to round out the various armies, but a quick fix from the company (that doesn't involve going back to metal tracks) would be very welcome.

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

39(H) OP Ready to Go!

Finally got my commission 39(H) OP cast up and ready to go... to "some guy" down in New Zealand.  Pretty happy with how it came out.  May need some final clean up before painting, but overall I'm pleased with the result. 

Here's a couple of photos:


Amazing what a good camera sees that your eye doesn't.  I've since cleaned up the shovel some.


I went ahead and added the jack in styrene.  Now it just needs the machine gun and commander and it will be ready to go. 

I wasn't able to vacuum cast these for some reason.  I think the resin was getting a little old and was outgassing a lot more than normal.  Mold could still have been outgassing some as well.  I'm going to try and make up one more for personal use so I don't have to burn the master.

Lots of "stuff" going on this week so I'll hopefully have more to post later on!


Tuesday, September 17, 2013

502 Schwere Panzerabteilung - Early Tiger I Progress

In addition to the initial production Tiger I tanks fielded by 502. Schwere Panzerabteilung, there were also a few of the more standard early production vehicles.  The Battlefront miniature represents this type well, and fixing them for the specific vehicles of this unit is generally easier.  Well, sort of.

The first change was the removal of the shovel from the front top hull.  The other change is the unit's tanks lacked the characteristic side-skirts seen with the Tiger I.  The challenge for me was to find an easy way to replicate the hanging studs for the side-skirts (which were present - unlike on the initial Tiger I).

Ultimately I found a source that worked flawlessly.  Archer Fine Transfers has a line of surface details.  These surface details are resin on very thin, high-quality decal film.  Their catalog can be downloaded and has true size scans of the various details.  I found a set of rivets that looked to have the right spacing for the studs - granted they're round, not square, but at this scale it is going to be hard to tell the difference. 

I drew lines with a straightedge to guide placement of the decal rivets.  I ended up using set AR88083 which seemed to have the right spacing for the side skirts. 




 
I cut out the rivets in groups of four cutting the decal with a very sharp hobby knife near the top and bottom of the rivets.  I also didn't leave much space at the ends.

 
Placing the individual rivet decals was a bit challenging, but it went fairly quickly using the normal techniques you'd use for high-quality decals.  I did use a little diluted Solvaset to make the film snug down properly.

 

Before priming the studs looked a bit large, but after a prime coat they look pretty good.  The beauty of the Archer system is it is literally designed to be primed and painted over. 

 

I'm sure they scale out a bit large, but even up close they have the distinctive 4 sets of 4 studs look of the actual Tiger I.  They should paint up and weather nicely.  I'm still hoping to field this army in late October, and have a LOT of work yet to do... as always!

Saturday, September 7, 2013

Tournament Organizer

One of the biggest challenges at any gaming tournament is quickly and easily moving your army from game to game.  If you pack everything back into the carrying case, you frequently lose precious gaming time because you have to get it back out again, for me frequently in multiple levels of a battle foam box.

Chris Fretts came up with a really nice tournament box option for flames of war.  The top of the box has ample room for your army and even some ground work to show off your nicely painted army when the painting judges come by.  The box includes a drawer and a couple of slots that can hold you small rulebook, army lists, PDF's, dice, templates, and markers.

I decided to do mine in a generic U.S. Army paint scheme of Olive Drab with a few stencils.  I've been experimenting with various sprays and stencils and this gave me another chance to try out a few techniques (pictures below).  I'll likely end up hitting it with a final protective coat as well.





Had to add the gag about "allow for expansion" because who really has enough FoW miniatures?  Really? 

So far I think he's only done one batch of these, but if he ever does another batch I strongly recommend any tourney player think about picking one up - or building something similar themselves. 
 

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Mystery Project Update!

So here's some more photos of the first of the two mystery projects...  At this point people should be pretty close to getting it.

 

 

The basic hull is together, but I still need to do some clean up - I'll get it posted later this week... :D